Buying a cage is the largest expense in keeping a hamster and it is important to provide the best and largest cage for your hamster that you can. However, it is possible to make a cage yourself for your hamster from relatively cheap items.

Caging for Dwarf Hamster- Dwarf Hamsters are sociable and will live happily in pairs or groups of mixed or single sexes. Different species should not be housed together as this would be highly stressful to them as they would not normally meet in the wild and each species has a very different character. Dwarf Hamsters are best introduced at a young age as an older hamster will not usually accept a new companion, particularly if it has become used to living alone. When buying two or more Dwarf Hamsters to live together it is not necessary to get hamsters from the same litter but they should be roughly the same age and size (and sex if you do not want to breed them) and should have been living in a group community when bought. They may squabble a little when first introduced but the squabbling often sounds worse than it actually is and is just their way of establishing who is the boss. Often there will be much squealing but very little physical contact. They are best left to sort this out unless serious injury or prolonged non-stop fighting occurs. Occasionally a very dominant hamster may not accept living with another but this is rare. There are a variety of hamster cages available from pet shops. The most common type of hamster cage has a plastic base and a rigid wire top. The wire top can be unclipped from the base making it easy to get the hamster out of the cage or to clean the cage. Similar cages with two or more floor levels are also available with ladders which allow the hamster to climb up and down between the different levels. These plastic base, rigid wire top cages are lightweight, durable and relatively cheap. However, you should check the secureness of any doors on such a cage as one that is opened too easily may be pushed open by the hamster. The bars should not be spaced more than 0.5 cm apart to prevent the hamster from escaping. Many hamster cages have bars which are spaced a little too far apart for Dwarf Hamsters and cages designed for mice are often better as the bars are spaced closer together. A cage with a shallow base will allow woodshavings to be kicked out of the cage and so it is best to find a cage with a deep base. The disadvantage with these type of cages is that they are not draughtproof and so it is important that this is considered when deciding where to put the cage.

There are also various makes of cages which consist of solid compartments and tunnels. These cages are often quite expensive and can be difficult to take apart and clean. Most Dwarf Hamsters once full grown are able to climb up vertically through the tubes but they will undoubtedly find a horizontal arrangement of the tubes and compartments easier. As they are solid compartments they do offer protection from draughts. As a minimum any such cage must have at least one large compartment which allows the hamster plenty of room in which to explore and exercise. The advantage of this type of cage is that more compartments can be added over time.

Aquariums can also be used to house a hamster. These are draughtproof and relatively cheap but glass aquariums can be awkward to clean because of their heavy weight. Plastic aquariums however are much easier to clean being lighter but the sides tend to become cratched after a time. Aquariums make ideal cages for pregnant hamsters, nursing mothers and baby hamsters. A water bottle can be fixed to the side of an aquarium by using adhesive Velcro pads or some water bottles are designed to be hung and these can be hung from the top of the aquarium. If the aquarium is shallow water bottles can be fixed horizontally from the lid but it should remembered that these will want refilling regularly as they will not dispense water when half empty. It is always best to ensure a lid is fixed to an aquarium - this will ensure nothing is accidentally dropped on the hamster, and will also help in preventing the hamster to escape - given plenty of woodshavings they can pile them up in one corner and reach the top. A wire mesh top is preferable to a solid lid with airholes as this prevents the build up of condensation.

Before preparing the cage you should consider where you are going to place the cage. The cage should be placed away from direct sunlight, away from draughts and in a room of constant temperature. Avoid putting the cage near a heater where the hamster may become hot and be sure to put the cage out of the way of any other pets which may harm your hamster.

To prepare the cage:
• Place a good layer of woodshavings on the floor(s) of the cage.
• Fill the water bottle with water and fix it to the cage at a height that the hamster will be able to reach comfortably. Check by running your finger over the end of the spout that it is delivering water. If it is not give the bottle a little squeeze, dry the end of the spout and run your finger over it again. Pet Shops sell liquid vitamins which can be added to the water and these can be particularly beneficial if your hamster is ill.
• If you are using a food dish fill it with hamster food and place this in the cage, otherwise sprinkle some on the floor of the cage.
• Place any cage accessories in suitable positions within the cage.
• Place a handful of nesting material in the cage or inside the hamster's "house".
• Fix the Exercise Wheel to the side of the cage or if you have a free standing wheel place this in a suitable position in the cage.

Each hamster will have different tastes and not all hamsters like the same things to eat. However, it is important to know what can and cannot be fed to hamsters to avoid harming the hamster and to help keep the hamster healthy. Hamsters have cheekpouches which they use to collect food. They push the food into the pouches which expand and then carry the food to some "safe" place. Here the hamster will empty the food from the pouches by pushing the food fowards and out of the mouth and create a food store. The inner lining of the cheekpouches are very delicate and sharp or sticky foods can become stuck.

Hamster Mix

These usually consist of crushed oats, barley, rodent pellets, peanuts, sunflower seeds, maize, dog biscuit and may also include ingredients such as locust bean treats, flaked peas, corn and bird seed. Some of the better mixes provide a wider variety with the addition of ingredients such as dried carrot, raisins, etc. There are also rodent or hamster pellets sold in some stores. These are compressed food pellets and although they are designed to meet a hamster's nutritional requirements they do not give the hamster any variety and so it is not advised to feed only these. Rodent or hamster pellets with some basic hamster mix though will provide an adequate main diet. Food mixes designed for other animals should not generally be given as these may not be suitable to meet your hamster's dietary requirements. However, a small seed bird mix can be added, particularly for dwarf hamsters or hamsters with young babies. Hamster mix does not perish quickly and so may be stored for some time in dry conditions without problem. Any changes in diet, even changing to a different hamster mix, should be made gradually as a sudden change in diet can cause your hamster to become ill. Hamsters should be fed a basic hamster mix and this should form the main part of their diet.

Food & Vegetables

Although the hamster mix will provide the hamster with a good basic diet, hamsters also enjoy fruit and vegetables. However, it is important that fruit and vegetables should be introduced to a hamster's diet gradually as a sudden large amount of fruit or vegetables can cause diarrhoea. To begin with the hamster should only be given a small piece of fruit or vegetable once or twice a week and over a period of weeks this can be increased to a small piece every day. If at any time the hamster shows signs of diarrhoea all feeding of fruit and vegetables should stop until the hamster has recovered and then gradually re-introduced into the diet. Certain vegetables, herbs and fruit can be fed to hamsters. The hamster should only be fed an amount it will eat as if the hamster is fed too much and stores vegetables and fruit it can become mouldy.

Vegetables and herbs that are safe to feed a hamster are:

• Alfafa
• Apple
• Asparagus
• Avocado
• Banana
• Basil
• Blackberries
• Blueberries
• Broccoli
• Brussel Sprouts - small amounts occasionally - not all hamsters like the strong taste
• Calabrese
• Cabbage - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
• Carrots
• Cauliflower leaves and stalks
• Celery
• Cherries - stones should be removed as they can be dangerous if gnawed
• Chestnuts
• Chicory
• Chinese Leaves
• Coriander
• Corn-on-the-Cob
• Corn Salad
• Courgettes
• Cranberries
• Cress
• Cucumber
• Curly Kale
• Dates
• Endive
• Fenugreek
• Feijoa
• Figs
• Grapes
• Green beans
• Kale - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
• Kidney Beans (cooked)
• Kiwi Fruit
• Kumquat
• Lettuce - small amounts occasionally - in excess it can cause liver problems
• Logan Berries
• Lychee
• Mange Tout
• Mango
• Marrow
• Melon
• Mint
• Mung
• Okra
• Pak Choy
• Papaya
• Parsley - a good tonic
• Peach
• Pear
• Peas
• Plums - stones should be removed as can be dangerous when gnawed
• Potato (cooked)
• Raspberries
• Raspberry Plant leaves - beneficial for diarrhoea
• Rhubarb (cooked)
• Rocket Chard
• Sage
• Sorrel
• Squash
• Star Fruit
• Strawberries
• Sugar Cane - small amounts
• Sweet Potato
• Soybean Sprouts
• Swede
• Sweetcorn
• Sweet Peppers
• Ugli Fruit
• Turnip
• Water Chestnuts
• Watermelon
• Water Spinach

Vegetables and herbs that should not be fed are:

• Kidney Beans (raw)
• Onion
• Potato (raw)
• Potato tops
• Rhubarb (raw)
• Rhubarb leaves
• Tomato leaves

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Picture of Hamster Accessories